Exploring Timor-Leste

Travel to one of the least visited countries on the planet

    Discover what you can do in Timor-Leste

    snorkelling & diving | hiking | mountain biking | history & culture | religious sites | coffee | other activities | volunteer | itineraries

    Snorkelling & Diving

    Timor-Leste has some of the best snorkelling and diving in the world, and is renowned for the diversity of fish life and health of the coral reefs. The map below was developed during Covid times by local dive companies to show the best spots in the country to explore underwater.

    Diliguide has a good guide to diving, and an excellent guide to snorkelling. Indopacificimages has another good diving guide.

    One of the great things about snorkelling and diving in Timor-Leste is that much of it is easily accessible by walking in from a beach, or taking a short boat ride. The reefs are some of the most bio-diverse in the world, though larger fish are relatively rare. Dolphins are commonly seen around Atauro Island, and at Tasi Tolu in Dili, dugong can be seen. The water temperature varies between 27°C / 81°F and 29°C / 84°F across the year so diving without a wetsuit is very achievable. Visibility is best during the dry season, though conditions are generally favourable for more of the year around Atauro Island than along Timor-Leste’s north coast as there are no large rivers carrying silt.

    This video will give you an idea of what to expect under the water in Timor-Leste.

    The best known dive companies are Dive Timor Lorosae, Aquatica, Dreamers Dive, Compass Diving and Atauro Dive Resort. The first three are based in Dili, the last two are based on Atauro Island. They all offer PADI training courses. Expect to pay around $400 for the Open Water Course and Qualification, and $50-$60 for a standard dive (including gear hire and a Dive Master or Instructor).

    It is worth noting that Timor-Leste does not have a hyperbaric chamber, so make sure that you have appropriate insurance if you are diving. You rarely need to go deeper than 25m though to fully enjoy Timor-Leste’s underwater sights.

    There is good snorkelling in and around Dili, but the best sites are found around Atauro Island, at the easily accessible Beloi reefs, and there are some incredible snorkelling opportunities at Atecru and Adara on the west coast of the island. Snorkel gear can be hired from dive companies and accommodation providers (like Barry’s Place on Atauro Island, or Dili based dive companies), but it may be simpler to bring your own. For more information on snorkelling visit Diliguide Snorkelling Guide.

    Over a fortnight somewhere between mid-October and the end of November pygmy blue whales migrate along the northern coast of Timor-Leste. Pygmy blue whales are the most common species of blue whale, and can grow up to 24m long, only 6m shorter than the longest blue whale species. Popular whale tours are run during this period, which booked out months in advance. The most common area to spot whales is off the coast of Hera, close to Dili. In recent years due to climate change the whales have been migrating later in the year. As with all animal encounters it is worth noting that sightings are definitely not guaranteed. I’ve written a detailed account of watching and swimming with Blue Whales in Timor-Leste.

    Hiking

    “Exploring Timor-Leste on Foot: 30 incredible hikes in one of the least visited countries in the world” is now available on Amazon

    Timor-Leste is home to incredible hiking, with some of the most impressive scenery in Southeast Asia, including near 3,000m high mountains, beautiful waterfalls, stunning beaches, and diverse landscapes. Exploring Timor-Leste on foot allows you to enjoy the sights, as well as the rich local culture and spend time with warm and welcoming Timorese.

    This article from Great Walks magazine provides a good overview and introduction to hiking in Timor-Leste. I also spoke to the Australian Hiker podcast about hiking in Timor-Leste which is worth a listen.

    Note that hiking in Timor-Leste is very much frontier hiking, with limited facilities and signage. You need to be prepared for heat, humidity, and hills. It is best to walk early in the morning, soon after sunrise, to avoid the worst of the heat, and take plenty of water and sun protection. However, if you are well-prepared, Timor-Leste rewards with stunning scenery, friendly locals, and a real sense of exploring where few other tourists have been.

    Hiking in Timor-Leste ranges from easy day hikes to multi-day adventures. Highlights include:

    Mt Ramelau / Tatamailau (Ainaro / Ermera) – the highest place in Timor-Leste offers panoramic views, and is a beautiful (if cold!) place from which to watch the sunrise.

    Cristo Rei (Dili) – home to one of the tallest statues of Jesus in the world, Cristo Rei is a popular place for locals and visitors alike to exercise and enjoy the scenic views from Cape Fatacuma.

    Vila to Makili (Atauro Island) – less well known than Manacoco (the highest point on the island) but an easier, safer, more enjoyable and varied loop hike between the island capital and the fishing village of Makili.

    Tasi Tolu Hills (Dili) – at less than 6km this packs probably more views per km walked than any other hike in Dili, including views of the Tasi Tolu lakes and Coromo river valley.

    La Rende! – follow in the footsteps of Australia’s Sparrow Force troops, who fought against the Japanese in then East Timor during WW2. Mad Dog Adventures run a six day supported hike through primarily Ermera before finishing at Mt Ramelau / Tatamailau.

    Timor-Leste Coast2Coast – it takes eight days to hike between Dili and Betano Beach, from the north to south coast of Timor-Leste, but it is an experience whose memories will last a lifetime. Eco Discovery is the go to local operator for this and other multi-day hiking adventures.

    For detailed routes, logistical information, and photos of the best hikes in Timor-Leste visit Timor-Leste Hiking Map.

    A popular way to explore Dili safely is with the Dili Saturday Walkers Facebook Group. They meet every Saturday morning to hike trails in and around the city. They are very welcoming, whether you’re a short term visitor, or are moving to Dili.

    Mountain Biking

    A country with lots of dirt roads and trails, and plenty of hills, is a good place for mountain biking. You don’t need to venture far out of Dili for some incredible rides. A number of trails have been built in Dili, Ainaro, Aileu, Atauro, and Manatuto, and there is a close knit community of riders in Timor-Leste. It is common to see both locals and expats head into the hills of Dare, behind Dili, early in the morning most days of the week.

    A few MTB focused companies have been established that can provide equipment and expertise. Mad Dog Adventures run multi-day mountain bike focused trips, while Comrider Adventure (+670 7718 4591) and Mountain Bike Timor-Leste (+670 7718 4591), both based in Dili, can help you enjoy the trails of Timor-Leste. Three good places for further information are Diliguide, Mountain Bike Timor-Leste, and the Timor-Leste MTB Facebook group.

    Here are a couple of the many incredible videos online about mountain biking in Timor-Leste…

    History & Culture

    Timor-Leste has a rich history and culture to explore.

    Early and indigenous period – humans have lived here for at least 44,000 years. There are over 30 sites and hundreds of rock art images dating back thousands of years in Nino Konis Santana National Park, the best known being Lil Kere Kere and in the Lene Hara cave. There are also Uma Lulik (sacred animist totem houses) thoroughout the country. There is a good map and information on the National Park from the Darwin Initiative, while Rude Adventures have some thought provoking context.

    Portuguese colonial period – the Portuguese were in East Timor (the pre-independence name of Timor-Leste) for over 400 years. They were primarily interested in exploiting the then abundant supplies of sandalwood, and later coffee. There are a number of historic buildings remaining from that period in varying degrees of preservation, with an extensive listing on Wikipedia. The old city centres of Baucau and Dili have greatest concentration, while there are forts remaining (in varying condition) in Baguia, Balibó, Batugade, Fuiloro, Laga, Lautém, Maubara, Suai Loro, and Vemasse.

    World War II – in February 1942, the Japanese invaded East Timor and fought against Australian, British, and Dutch East Indies soldiers and the Timorese kriados in the Battle of Timor. The Allies were defeated but held up an entire Japanese division for more than six months, preventing its deployment elsewhere. There is a Memorial to this battle at Dare Cafe close to Dili. A number of caves were dug by the Japanese and the defenders at Venilale, Balibó, on the road to Leo Hitu, and in the Aitutu mountains.

    Resistance and Independence – after the Portuguese left East Timor (Timor-Leste) in 1975 the Indonesian army invaded and occupied the country until 1999. In 2002 Timor-Leste joined the United Nations as one of the newest countries in the world. There are a large number of excellent books on this period of Timor-Leste’s history, and many places of interest to visit, including in Dili – The Archive & Museum of East Timorese Resistance, Chega Museum and Archive, Galeria Memória Viva, Santa Cruz Cemetery, Max Stahl Audiovisual Centre, and Xanana Gusmão Reading Room. There are important sites throughout the country, including Balibo Fort, the Mehara hideout place for Xanana Gusmã (a Resistance leader), massacre site close to Cailaco, Com Indonesian military fort and massacre site, and Resistance site and Indonesian military base on top of Mt. Bolete.

    ‘Traditional’ cultural practices – particularly in the districts (general term for the country outside of the cities) local cultural practices and traditions remain strong, with festivals and ceremonies taking place throughout the year. As a tourist these are difficult to identify and access though unless you use a local tour company. Festival dates are likely to be announced late, and may change at short notice. In Dili the Tais Market and Alola Foundation are good places to find high-quality hand-made tais (intricately woven cloth), traditional jewellery, bags, and handicrafts, and there are notable local markets in Aileu, Baucau, Manatuto, Maubisse, and Beloi on Atauro Island.

    If you want to learn more about the wonderful textiles of Timor-Leste a series of freely available to read coffee table books can be found online – The Textiles of Covalima, The Textiles of Lautem, The Textiles of Bobonaro, and The Textiles of Baucau. Strong Cloth: East Timor’s Tais is also a good read. There is also a book available on Timorese pottery – Sanan Rai.

    Religious Sites

    “Exploring Timor-Leste’s Religious Sites” is now available on Amazon

    About 98% of Timor-Leste’s population is Roman Catholic so there are plenty of churches and pilgrimage sites around the country. Notable sites include Dili’s Cathedral, Motael Church, and the 27m tall Cristo Rei statue of Jesus. Mount Ramelau / Tatamailau and Mount Matebian are popular pilgrimage sites, with statues of the Virgin Mary and Crist on their respective summits. Notable churches outside Dili include Soibada’s The Chapel of Our Lady of Aitara (for pilgrimages), Igreja De Laleia, Our Lady of Grace Church Vemasse, and St. Anthony Cathedral in Baucau.

    In 1989 Pope John Paul II visited then East Timor and his visit is commemorated in the Tasi Toli area of Dili by the Uma Adat São Paulo II, and the Statue of Pope John Paul II, both of which I visited on this walk. In 2024, Pope Francis visited Timor-Leste, attracting more than half of the country’s population to celebrate mass at Tasi Tolu.

    There is also a small Muslim population, Dili’s An-Nur Mosque is their main place of worship. Dili is home to a beautiful Chinese Temple dating from 1928. Close to Taibesi markets is Pura Giri Natha Dili, a Balinese temple built during the Indonesian occupation, which is currently being restored.

    Coffee

    Other than oil and gas, coffee is one of Timor-Leste’s main exports, and has been for over 150 years. During the harvest season, from May to September, is a good time to visit plantations such as Letefoho Specialty Coffee Roasters (Ermera), Knua Hakmatek (Ainaro), and Cocamau (Ainaro) to see coffee beans being picked and processed. The most commonly produced coffee is Timor Hybrid (also called Tim Tim), a hybrid of Arabica and Robusta. This coffee plant varietal was discovered in the 1940s in Timor, and exported worldwide as it has a strong resistance to coffee leaf rust, which is a risk for most coffee plant species. Starbucks are the largest buyer of coffee from Timor-Leste, with a relationship dating back to 1996. Mad Dog Adventures offer multi-day coffee focused trips.

    Other Activities

    Other exciting things that you can do in Timor-Leste include…

    • Birding. Timor-Leste has a high diversity of birds, with over 240 bird species, including at least 23 found nowhere else other than the island of Timor. You’ll need to bring your own binoculars though, as there are few organised tourism opportunities. The Tasi Tolu lakes in Dili are a good place to see wading birds.
    • Canyoning. Mad Dog Adventures offer a range of canyoning trips near Dili between June and November each year.
    • Cruises. Timor-Leste is on very few cruise ship itineraries but the Holland America ship ms Noordam, and the Ponant Cruises ship Paul Gauguin do occasionally stop in Dili. Dili rarely receives more than half a dozen cruise ships a year.
    • “Exploring Timor-Leste From the Air” is now available on Amazon
    • Droning. Timor-Leste has almost no restrictions on drone flying other than the usual restrictions at Dili, Baucau and Oé-Cusse airports. Depending on your drone model you may need to request approval to fly in the authorisation zone that extends around the airport out to central Dili.
    • Fishing. A staple of Timorese life for those who live around the coast but there are relatively few tourist opportunities unless you bring your own gear with you. The easiest place to organise fishing is at Barry’s Place on Atauro Island.
    • Rock climbing. There are plenty of excellent places to climb in Timor-Leste, very few of which have been explored. You’ll need to bring your own gear though and do your own exploring as there is almost no information online about rock climbing here.
    • Running. Despite the climate, running is a popular activity in Timor-Leste, particularly along the Dili waterfront at dawn and dusk every day. The Dili Marathon usually takes place annually in September or October, though the event details often aren’t confirmed until literally days before the event, and in recent years the longest distance was a half marathon.
    • Swimming. It’ll primarily be in the sea as there are surprisingly few lakes in Timor-Leste. The sea is usually between 27-29C, more than refreshingly warm! In terms of avoiding crocodiles (generally a good idea) the safest place to swim is Atauro Island. Around Dili, Liquiçá east from Maubara, One Dollar Beach in Manatuto, and Oé-Cusse are low risk. People swim and snorkel at Jaco Island, but there have been a number of near misses with crocodiles. Everywhere else should be treated with extreme caution as there is a high risk of crocodiles. The south coast in particular is notorious for crocodiles, including in rivers and outlets. A number of hotels have swimming pools, and there are natural spring fed pools in Baucau and close to Same in Manufahi.
    • Trail running. There is amazing trail running to be discovered in Timor-Leste. Most of the hiking routes would be suitable for running. Mad Dog Adventures have run multi-day trail running adventures.

    Things that you can’t however do are…

    • Catch a train. Timor-Leste is only 27 countries in the world without a rail network, and unlike many, it has never had one.
    • Golf. There are no golf courses in the country, putting it among only 37 countries in the world that don’t. There is however in Dili a driving range, Top Golf.
    • Skiing. There is no snow! Despite the highest point being close to 3,000m above sea level, Timor-Leste is too close to the equator for snow.
    • Visit botanic gardens. Timor-Leste doesn’t have any formal botanic gardens, but there is plenty of beautiful and lush greenery throughout the country, particularly during the wet season.
    • Visit a UNESCO World Heritage Site. There aren’t any in Timor-Leste currently, but they have taken the first steps to prepare a bid for Nino Konis Santana National Park to be declared one.
    • Surfing. There may be some breaks on the south coast, but there are also lots of crocodiles there…

    Volunteer

    If you want a different perspective, and to make a contribution to Timor-Leste, it is a wonderful place to volunteer. There are a number of organisations that run assignments in country, working with international NGOs, United Nations organisations, local NGOs, and government departments. Assignments can last from a few months to a couple of years, and increasingly remote and hybrid options are being offered in addition to being in-country for the duration. Some volunteer organisations provide in-country support, accommodation, flights, vaccinations, travel and medical insurance, and cover your living costs. Others expect volunteers to be self-funded and organise pretty much everything themselves. Either way you’ll certainly have a memorable life experience, and the opportunity to support a country much in need of capacity and capability building.

    Peace Corps (American citizens only)

    Australian Volunteers International (Australian citizens only)

    Volunteer Service Abroad (New Zealand citizens only)

    Japan International Cooperation Agency (Japanese citizens only)

    Korea International Cooperation Agency (Korean citizens only)

    United Nations Volunteers (any nationality)

    Palms Australia (Australian citizens only)

    There may also be opportunities through local NGOs including Maluk Timor (health sector capacity building), Blue Ventures (marine conservation), Alola Foundation (women’s rights and maternal health), Permatil (sustainable agriculture), and CNC – Timor Coffee Cooperative (volunteers sometimes assist with marketing or training). Religious volunteering may also be possible with Salesians of Don Bosco, Catholic Relief Services, and Jesuit Refugee Service.

    If you’re interested in a first hand perspective I’ve written a blog post – How did I end up volunteering in Timor-Leste?

    Advice for those considering volunteering:

    • Be clear why you are volunteering. It is not a holiday and it will be tough at times.
    • The recruitment and deployment process can take a long time (allow at least 6 months) so consider how that fits with your life plans and any decisions you need to make.
    • Organisations do a good job of preparing you for the reality of the assignments, but it is one thing to read / hear about something, and another to actually experience it.
    • If you are going with a partner consider what they will do if you’re not both volunteering full time, though just doing the shopping, washing and life admin can feel almost full time on occasion.
    • Be aware that everything takes longer and is harder to do in a developing country, patience is required!

    Itineraries

    From Dili it is possible to travel to pretty much everywhere in Timor-Leste within a day, though with the condition of some of the roads it can take five hours to travel less than 100km.

    Day trips from Dili

    Atauro Island

    It is possible to visit Atauro Island for the day on Saturdays and get about 4 hours on the island, enough time to explore the markets and go for a snorkel (you can organise boats and rent gear from Barry’s Place). Catch the Dragon Boat at 8am, which arrives around 9.30am. Return in the afternoon either on the Dragon Boat (which can leave early if the seas are rough) or on the Nakroma / Success ferry which leave between 2pm and 3pm.

    Liquiçá

    With your own transport (e.g. hire car or scooter) it is very doable to visit the historic Alpelo Prison, Maubara (fort, church and lake) and Liquiçá town (massacre site, church, and seafront restaurants) in a day, with about two and half hours driving. It is also possible by local bus but allow sufficient time to get back to Dili at the end of the day as buses don’t run at night.

    Gleno

    Visit the largest town in Ermera to explore the huge church, and stop at Railaco on the way to visit Gecko Café. Allow at least two and half hours for driving, the road up to Gleno is steep and winding.

    Seloi Craic

    Home to a beautiful lagoon filled with water lilies and surrounded by rice fields. This is a productive agriculture area, and camping is possible. Allow at least three hours for driving. Seloi Craic is a 20-30 minute detour from the main road to Aileu.

    Aileu

    For a cooler climate, waterfalls, and mountain views head up into the hills to Aileu. Projeto Montanha is an excellent destination for lunch, but let them know in advance that you’re coming. There are a couple of notable memorials and busy markets on Saturdays. Allow at least three hours for driving, there is rarely a straight section of road up to Aileu, it is the very definition of winding!

    Two days

    Baucau

    Explore wonderful historic buildings in Timor-Leste’s second largest city, and enjoy the only large public swimming pool in the country (closed on Mondays and Thursdays). Two and a half hours drive one way from Dili, along stunning coastline on some of the best roads in the country.

    Balibó

    Visit (and stay at) the historic Balibó Fort Hotel, and explore the history and natural beauty of the area. Three to four hours drive one way from Dili, on an excellent road along the coast and a less good one up into the Bobonaro hills. D2 “Uma Kafé” in Atabae is a good place to stop on the way for food, drinks, and rice field views.

    Mt Ramelau / Tatamailau

    Travel to Hatu Builico, and get an early night ready for a 2.30am wake up call, and then hike for 3 hours to the 2,986m summit of Timor-Leste’s highest peak to see the sunrise. Two and half to three hours drive one way from Dili, with some challenging road conditions toward the end requiring a 4WD vehicle or good motorbike skills.

    Maubisse

    If you don’t fancy hiking up Mt Ramelau / Tatamailau, or don’t have a 4WD, you can still enjoy the beautiful mountain scenery from Maubisse. Two and a half hours drive one way from Dili, along good roads the whole way.

    Oé-Cusse

    Explore Timor-Leste’s little visited enclave surrounded by Indonesia. From Dili overnight ferries and overland buses take the best part of 12 hours. Aero Dili flights take 35 minutes but only fly on Fridays unfortunately.

    Three days plus

    Jaco Island

    It is physically possible to visit Jaco Island in a weekend, but with it taking 12-16 hours to drive there and back, that doesn’t leave much time to explore the place. Break up the journey in Baucau or Com, and expect increasingly rough and uncomfortable roads after Com.

    Atauro Island

    To properly unwind you need to stay overnight on Atauro Island. Ferries (1.5-3 hours) leave Dili on Saturdays, Tuesdays, and Thursdays, and flights (15 minutes) on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, so staying for a few days at least is logistically easier, though (expensive) water taxis are available daily if there is sufficient demand.

    Baguia

    Visit (and stay at) another historic fort, and enjoy challenging hiking around or up Matebian, the second highest mountain in Timor-Leste. Five hours drive one way from Dili along the coast on decent roads, and then up into the hills on very rough roads, requiring a 4WD vehicle or decent motorbike skills.