Exploring Timor-Leste

Tour operators

For anyone other than the most intrepid travellers, employing the help of a tour operator is essential if you are planning on travelling outside of Dili or Atauro Island.

Timorese tour operators

Timorese tour operators offer fully customised itineraries based on your preferences, from half day cultural experiences, to multi-day adventures. All these companies are Timorese owned (other than Island Explore Holidays) and operated, and are reputable and well established tour operators. They can offer guides, drivers, and transport.

Eco Discovery (+670 7726 9829 or +670 7728 5783 or inquiries@ecodiscovery-easttimor.com) –  also run day and multi-day hiking trips

Island Explore Holidays (+670 76899555 or tours@islandexplorehholidays.tl) – also operate as a travel agent

Jubentos Timor Adventures Tours (+670 7862-5995 or +670 7835-5255)

Manny Timor Tours (+670 7841 3522 or talk2us@mannytimortours.com) – also run trips to West Timor

Timor Indigenous Tours (+670 7553 8587 or timorindigenoustours@gmail.com)

Timor Sightseeing (+670 7711 9545 or timor.sightseeing@gmail.com)

When it comes to guiding services, the fees can vary widely depending on the type of tour, the region, and the specifics of the service. Note that there is no guide accreditation in Timor-Leste, anyone can call themselves a guide. Transport is usually the largest part of these rates, as public transport is rarely an option. Confirm whether accommodation and food for the driver / guide is included in the quoted price. Always discuss and confirm the rates and services in advance to avoid any surprises.

For sightseeing tours expect daily rates between $25 and $200 per person, depending on the group size and tour location. For adventure tours, such as hiking, expect daily rates between $50 and $250 and beyond per person, depending on the group size and complexity of the tour. For multi-day hikes a considerable amount of support is required, and costs are comparable to hiking in Papua New Guinea or remote areas of Nepal.

Speciality tours operators

The following are Timorese owned and operated tour operators based in a specific location or focused on a particular activity:

Atauro Tourism (+670 7737 5489 or +670 7597 3623 or atkoma@ataurotourism.org) – offer a range of diving, hiking and relaxing trips on Atauro Island, and are run by ATKOMA, the association of Atauro Island tourism operators

Balibó Trails (+670 7715 7737) – offer walking, cultural and biking tours around Balibó

Bounty Timor Tours (+670 7729 2800 or info@bountytimortours.com) – primarily a travel agent

Timor Fixer (+670 7774 5933 or timorfixer@gmail.com) – can organise tourism activities, along with film and production logistical support

Timor Motorbike Rental & Tours (+670 7864 8066 or timormotorbikerental20@gmail.com) – provide motorbike rental and run guided motorbike tours around Timor-Leste

Total Timor Tours (+670 7864 8066 or info@totaltimortours.com) – offer a range of tours including motorcycle adventures

The following are Australian owned operators, but the vast majority of their teams are Timorese.

Mad Dog Adventures (+61 409 524 265 or sam@maddogadventures.com.au) – offer mountain biking, trail running, coffee, and hiking multi-day trips, along with canyoning day trips from Dili

Timor-Leste Yoga & Cultural Adventures (+46 8 38 65 46 or mfisk102@gmail.com) – offer trips focused on wellness (yoga each day), Timorese culture and giving back to communities (three days immersing in the daily lives of remote villages)

Timor Unearthed (+61 434 992 276 or info@timorunearthed.com) – offer a range of tours focused on the school market, and are also the local operator for the Intrepid Travel tours below…

Package tours

A small number of international travel companies offer package tours to Timor-Leste including a guide, transport, accommodation, and some / all meals.

Intrepid Travel – offer a 9 day tour each month between May and October covering Dili, Atauro Island and Mt Ramelau

Soviet Tours – offer a 7 day tour in August covering Dili, Atauro Island, Liquiçá, Maubisse, Baucau and Venilale

Travel Gateway – offer package deals to Timor-Leste

Undiscovered Destinations – offer a 14 day tour in late June / early July covering Dili, Atauro Island, Mt Ramelau, Baucau, Venilale, Com, and Jaco Island

The following companies also occasionally run tours to Timor-Leste – Young Pioneer Tours, Lupine Travel, and Mitra Travel.

Local guides

Hiring local guides is a great way of supporting communities in what is classified by the United Nations as least developed country. Prices vary but expect in general to pay between USD$20 and USD$30 a day for a local guide in the districts without transport. Outside of Dili don’t expect them to speak much English. There are very few full time tourism operators and guides in Timor-Leste, so it is likely to be a local farmer (or their son) who shows you the way. The best place to organise a local guide is through a local tour operator or through your accommodation when staying in the districts.

How much it will cost?

Timor-Leste is a surprisingly expensive place, both to reach, and to travel around in. Here are some indicative costs for travellers.

Flights – Expect to pay at least USD500 return to fly into Dili from Bali or Darwin, and more from Singapore. $30 cash is required for a 30 day tourist visa for most countries, but check the visa policy of Timor-Leste. Taxis from the airport to anywhere in Dili are at least $15, or walk to the Estátua do Presidente Nicolau Lobato roundabout and catch a microlet (local bus) for 25c.

Accommodation – In Dili expect to pay at least $30 a night for budget accommodation, around $100 for mid-tier accommodation, and around $200 a night for high-end accommodation. Outside of Dili expect to pay around $25-$40 a night for accommodation (including breakfast but bring your own towel), and $50-$90 for Pousadas (historic buildings turned into accommodation).

Transport – Micolets (local buses) in Dili are 25c a ride, taxis can be up to $15 a ride, and local buses from Dili to the main towns are $5-$12. Domestic flights with MAF are typically around $80. Ferries to Atauro are between $4 and $12. Ferries to Oé-Cusse are $15. Flights to Oé-Cusse are $20. Expect to pay $120 to $150 a day for car hire with a local driver (recommended as the traffic rules are probably not what you’re used to at home).

Food – Where the locals eat expect to pay $2-$4 for meals, but $10 or more at internationally orientated restaurants. Tap water isn’t drinkable anywhere in Timor-Leste. 1.5 litre water bottles can be bought almost anywhere for 50c a bottle.

Attractions – Almost everywhere is free entry, and those that do charge (Hera mangroves, Dokomali waterfall, snorkelling protected areas around Atauro Island) are up to $2 per person. The most expensive place to visit is probably the rock art at Ili Kere Kere, close to Jaco Island, which is $10 per person.

Tipping – Tipping isn’t part of the culture in Timor-Leste, but consider that as a visitor you are likely to be significantly wealthier than the locals, and contributions are always welcome.

Getting to Timor-Leste

Flying into Dili is the main way of getting to Timor-Leste, though border crossings from Indonesia are possible (check the visa situation in advance!). There are regular flights from Darwin (1.5 hours with Qantas and Air North), Denpasar / Bali (2 hours with Citilink and Aero Dili), and Singapore (5 hours with Aero Dili). Despite their short duration flights are not cheap…

Many nationalities will need to bring USD$30 cash (there are no ATMs at the airport airside and they don’t accept credit cards) to pay for a 30 day single entry tourist visit, and complete a traveller declaration online to present a QR code when you leave the airport.

Citizens of European Union European Union member states (except Ireland), Iceland, Liechtenstein, Norway, and Switzerland can spend 90 days in Timor-Leste within any 180 days without needing a visa (i.e. free entry). Citizens of Cape Verde, Indonesia, Laos, Malaysia, Singapore, and Thailand can spend 30 days in Timor-Leste without needing a visa. Since Timor-Leste joined ASEAN in October 2025 citizens of other ASEAN countries should also be able to enter visa free. This Wikipedia page tends to have the most up to date information on visas for Timor-Leste.

Visit Diliguide for more further information.

It is possible to travel overland and cross the border from Indonesia. Timor Tours & Travel sell bus tickets between Dili and Kupang. Buses cost $25 and take 12 hours, leaving Kupang at 6am. Other bus companies include Paradise, Bagong, Damri and Babadok.

Getting around Timor-Leste

Timor-Leste is not an easy place to get around. Travel times are usually longer than expected relative to the distances, and often involve a bumpy ride! In general the roads are either good (if they’re new), have a number of pot holes (maintenance is patchy), or are terrible. Good roads can easily turn to terrible roads, and back to good roads depending on the construction schedule.

There are four main modes of transport – motor vehicle, bus, plane and boat (to Atauro Island and Oé-Cusse).

Motor vehicle – No international hire companies operate in Timor-Leste but there are a few local options that will hire you a car, motorbike or scooter. Unless you’re experienced at driving in South East Asia traffic though I’d strongly recommend that you get a local driver (for a car), this isn’t a good place to learn! It is more common / safer to organise a car with a driver through a tour operator, which typically costs $120-$150 a day.

People have travelled around Timor-Leste in scooters, but for anywhere further than a couple of hours driving out of Dili, motorbikes are strongly recommended. There are few flat roads in Timor-Leste, so you need to be comfortable with riding up and down often steep hills, and care needs to be taken when invariably the tarmac turns to a rocky, dirt road.

If you are comfortable driving here are some options (most of whom can arrange drivers) – ESilva Car Rentals, Island Explorer Holidays, Taltabi Car Rental, Timor Motorbike Rentals & Tours, and Ventura Rental & Tour Guide.

Bus – Colourful buses depart Dili from the city outskirts in the mornings (from 3am onwards), but when they’re full (or overfull!). They’re cheap, just a few dollars, but have proved too much even for ‘adventure’ travellers. This video will give you an idea of what to expect!

There are three ‘bus stations’ in Dili. Becora for eastern districts (including Manatuto, Baucau, Los Palos (Lautém)) which is on the #1 microlet route. Taibessi for central and southern districts (including Aileu, Maubisse (Ainaro), Same (Manufahi), Suai (Covalima)) which is on the #4, #5, #7 and #8 microlet routes. Tasi Tolu for western districts (including Liquiçá, Balibó (Bobonaro), Maliana (Bobonaro), Gleno (Ermera)) which is on the #10 and #11 microlet routes.

Plane – MAF (Mission Aviation Fellowship) provide an important medical evacuation service for the remote areas of Timor-Leste (basically the whole country!). To help fund their operations and provide connections around the country they run a number of scheduled flights (generally 2-3 times a week) to Atauro Island, Baucau, Lospalos, Maliana, Same, Suai, and Viqueque. They have a regular flight schedule and also offer charter flights. They have an excellent safety record despite the challenging conditions in Timor-Leste. This is by far the quickest way to travel around Timor-Leste. They have a flat $100 a day rate (excluding petrol) for providing connecting land transport with a driver from their flights, which is a great way of organising your onward travel as many of the airstrips are effectively fields, with no facilities. Aero Dili fly to Oé-Cusse from Dili on Mondays and Fridays for $20 each way.

Atauro Island

Regular ferries run on Saturdays (Dragon Boat and Success / Nakroma), Tuesdays (Success) and Thursdays (Dragon Boat) between Dili and Beloi on Atauro Island, taking between 1.5 and 3 hours. They leave Dili around 8am, and depart from Beloi around 2pm. MAF flights operate on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays. A number of the accommodation providers on the island run their own boats for guests, but may be willing to take non-guests if there is space, or if the boat is chartered.

MAF flights are the quickest and most comfortable way to travel but only include 10kg luggage (excess is possible) and cost $80. The Success is the slowest but most comfortable ferry and costs $5. The seats by the side doors have more fresh air, leg room, and access to UK plug sockets. The Dragon Boat is the most popular ferry with tourists as it is fast, but it can be challenging in rough seas, noisy inside, and you can’t get any fresh air while travelling. VIP tickets are $12 but if you suffer from sea sickness the $10 standard tickets are better as you sit lower in the boat. The Nakroma is the oldest ferry and is probably best to avoid though it is only $4. The boats run by accommodation providers are fast, but not that comfortable, and are surprisingly expensive at $70-$80 per person. Note that photo ID is required to buy ferry tickets, other than for the Dragon Boat.

The schedule for transport to Atauro Island changes quite frequently so it is best to go online for the latest information. Barry’s Place maintain the most up to date information on the various transport options. I’ve created a map below of where transport departs from and where to buy tickets for the various options.

I’ve made a showing the Dragon Boat experience, and sharing information on the Nakroma.

I’ve also made a video about the Success ferry experience.

Oecusse-Ambeno

Overnight ferries (taking about 13 hours, cost $15) travel between Dili and Oé-Cusse during the week, and it can be possible to pay extra to hire one of the crew cabins to get a bed for the night. Aero Dili fly to Oé-Cusse on Monday mornings and Friday afternoons, and return to Dili on Monday mornings and Friday afternoon for $20. Note that despite it being a domestic flight photo ID is required at check in. There are many Tum-Tums (electric tuk-tuks) waiting to collect passengers. Travelling overland you need to be careful with visas and may need to pay $35 for Indonesian entry and exit visas at each border.

Getting around Dili

Getting around Dili is relatively straightforward when you know how, though note that yellow taxis and microlets stop running after dark, and there is no street lighting!

The most ‘fun’ and cheapest way to get around is by microlet, small local buses that run on fixed routes to most places in Dili. They only cost 25c per trip (pay when you get off), pick up / stop whenever you want (wave at them / tap your money inside), and are super frequent between around 6am and 6pm. Downsides are that they really are small inside and the music can be deafening. If the front seat is available take it!

Some very kind (and patient) people have created a Dili Microlet Routes Map which shows the 13 routes (which can be toggled on / off) and a Google Maps version which is useful to add to your phone. The key thing to bear in mind when using these maps is that there are many one way streets in Dili so you often can’t get on / off at the same place. You may need to either walk a couple of blocks or spend longer than you’d hoped on a microlet.

There are two types of taxi in Dili. The yellow ones are more common but negotiation skills will be required, expect to typically pay $3-$6 and at least $15 from the airport to anywhere. The blue ones are typically twice the price but operate on meters, run after dark, and have a better reputation. They need to be called on +670 774 27777 (which was a surprisingly hard number to acquire!) and may take a little while, so do ask how long it will take, and call back after five minutes to check on progress.

Walking is also an option around the central city / waterfront but best done in the morning when it is relatively cooler, take plenty of water and sun protection, and watch out for the holes in the pavement! Cross the road at the pedestrian crossings (marked with white striped lines) where traffic will generally stop for you if you start walking!

Driving yourself around Dili in a car or on a motorbike or scooter is not advisable unless you have prior experience of driving in Southeast Asian traffic, particularly during one of the three rush hours during the week (8-10am, 12-2pm, and 5-7pm). Dili has an extensive series of one way streets (which aren’t all reflected on Google Maps), which can incur fines of $45 for if driven down inadvertently. Traffic rarely abides by lanes or follows right of way rules that you may be familiar with. Motorbikes and scooters basically swarm around larger vehicles, and near misses are constant, though actual collisions appear surprisingly rare.

Where to stay

High-end accommodation is around $200 a night, mid-tier around $100 a night, and budget accommodation upward of $30 a night.

There are a fair number of places to stay in Timor-Leste from basic home stays in remote villages to relatively flash hotels in Dili. In general you’ll pay more than you would elsewhere in South East Asia for accommodation. Many places, particularly outside of Dili, offer food as they may be the only places to eat in the area. It is best to book ahead as food may not be available on request, or involve a long wait.

AirBnB is relatively new to Timor-Leste with around 30 listings in the whole country. Couchsurfing is popular with those on a budget as there are few backpacker options other than Timor Backpackers and Casa Minha Backpackers, with Dili Central Backpackers and East Timor Backpackers now closed. DaTerra also run a couple of hostels in Dili, DaTerra Hostel and DaTerra Vila Verde Hostel.

There are a number of Pousada around Timor-Leste, these are generally Portuguese colonial era buildings that have been refurbished and offer slightly pricey but characterful accommodating. Some of the better known ones are Pousada de Baucau, Baguia Fort, Pousada Lautem, Pousada Maubisse (currently closed), and Balibó Fort Hotel.

At the high end there are a number of modern hotels in Dili. When the Palm Springs Hotel Dili opened in late 2024 it was the flashiest place in town. Other options include the older but centrally located Hotel Timor, the Novo Turismo Resort & Spa, Hotel The Ramelau, and Timor Plaza Hotel. Occupancy rates are high in Dili with business travellers so discounts are rare.

Outside of Dili, Liquiçá and Baucau there are basically no hotels. Guest houses are the norm, and typically cost $25 to $40 for bed and breakfast. Toilet paper and towels are not guaranteed, so best to bring your own.

Note that outside of high end hotels in Dili it is almost impossible to book accommodation online. Providers may not respond to emails either. The Timorese way to book accommodation is to use WhatsApp. Some places aren’t even on WhatsApp and will need to be called to make a booking.

Food and drink

Timor-Leste isn’t world famous for its cuisine (though its coffee is) but you can definitely eat well here (portion sizes tend to be generous). As you’d expect in South East Asia rice is a staple but there are also some interesting Portuguese influences and ‘fusion’ restaurants. Particularly outside of Dili it is worth calling or WhatsApp messaging restaurants in advance to order food, or at least let them know that you’re coming, as otherwise you may wait a while.

A typical meal for the Timorese will consist of rice and a variety of vegetables, possibly with fish or chicken. Pork and beef are generally reserved for celebrations because the animals are of considerable value. Corn is a major part of the diet and is eaten in a variety of dishes. Most food follows Indonesian influence and dishes such as nasi goreng (fried rice) or mee goreng (fried noodles, though usually two minute noodles) are readily available. Breakfast in a guesthouse would typically be bread rolls (sometimes fresh) and hard boiled eggs. Food is rarely served hot, even if freshly cooked, it will usually be served warm. Dili offers plenty of choice in terms of restaurants and cuisine. Prices can range from $2 to $20+ for a meal. There are cafes which are open all day and restaurant / bars which are open until late at night.

Take the usual precautions you would when eating in a developing country, by sticking wherever possible to cooked food. Salads are generally fine in higher end establishments but there are no guarantees.

Tap water isn’t drinkable anywhere in Timor-Leste, so stick with bottled water throughout your visit, or bring a good water filter and purification tablets. Timorese in Dili buy refillable 19 litre water bottles for drinking.

Beer is universally available (though usually only the local beer Bintang), and a selection of soft drinks and fruit drinks are generally available in eating places. Note that fruit drinks are usually loaded with sugar unless you ask for “no sugar” or “lae masin-midar” in Tetun (translates as sweet salt!). European and Australian wines are easy to get but expensive and the range is limited. Soft drinks, bottled water and canned beer are sold at markets, shops and by street vendors. The true Timorese drink is coffee (known as kafe in Tetun). It is preferred strong and black, and usually served hot and sweet. Espresso coffees are available at the many western style cafes.

In Dili and the larger towns there are a range of snack barrows (called warung), where you can get a selection of rice cooked in a palm leaf parcel, barbecued chicken, fish or corn from $2-$4. A local favourite pastime is to sit and eat on the beach watching the sunset.

Diliguide has by far the best information on where to eat and drink in Dili and further afield. To make it easier to find places I’ve created a map with this information…

Internet

Public wifi is almost non-existent in Timor-Leste, so if you’re here for more than a couple of days it is worth getting a local sim card. eSims are available for Timor-Leste but they are pricey if you’re using much data. The best place to buy sim cards is from the airport or the first floor of Dili’s Timor Plaza (the only real shopping mall in the country). You will need your passport. The ‘unlimited’ packages tend to cap the (already slow) speed so if you’re not streaming then paying for a certain amount of data tends to offer faster speeds. There are three providers in Timor-Leste – Timor Telecom, Telkomcel, and Telemor. Most locals would recommend Telemor for their coverage and reliability. To top up your mobile plan you can buy ‘pulsa’, scratchable cards with between $1 and $10 of credit, from pretty much any corner shop or supermarket.

A couple of useful sites to explore the various options are Phone Wiz Travel and Prepaid Data SIM Card Wiki.

Safety

Timor-Leste has one of the lowest crime rates in South East Asia and violence against malae (foreigners) is extremely rare. It has a reputation based on conflict and unrest in the 1990s and 2000s, but has been a stable and democratic states for decades now. Nowhere is fully safe but if you take the usual precautions as you would at home there is no reason to believe that you will be in any more danger here than anywhere else.  While it’s had a recent violent past most do find it quite safe to walk around alone during the daytime, but take care at night as you would expect to.

As usual the greatest risks are probably from the roads, and hiring a local driver is recommended if you venture too far out of Dili. As usual the greatest risks are probably from the roads, and hiring a local driver is recommended if you venture too far out of Dili. Wherever there are homes there tend to be dogs, who will bark at you but tend not to approach, and if they do then reaching down to pick up a stone will generally keep them at bay. There is good additional information on this topic in Diliguide.

Wildlife risks

You need to be aware of crocodiles. Atauro Island is safe for swimming, Dili and parts of Manatuto and Liquiçá are low risk, and many people swim at Jaco Island but there have been near misses. Otherwise it is best to assume that everywhere else in Timor-Leste is too dangerous to swim, or even to wade in the sea, streams or creeks.

Although Timor-Leste is home to poisonous animals and plants, you are highly unlikely to come across them. Snakes are rare in Dili and on Atauro Island, and as someone who wears shorts and has hiked around Timor-Leste I’ve yet to have much more damage from plants than a few scratches, though March flies on Atauro Island can be painful.

The biggest risk statistically is from mosquitoes carrying Dengue or Chikungunya, so take suitable precautions, particularly at the start and end of the day. March flies are a problem on Atauro Island on the road from Beloi to Adara, and around the coastline in places. Though not poisonous, they have a nasty bite, don’t seem to mind insect repellent, and are difficult to get rid of. Long pants, or zip offs that can be worn at times, are the best solution.

The most common animal you’ll come across hiking are dogs, which are almost guaranteed at every Timorese house. They are likely to bark, much less likely to bite, but care should be taken. As a general rule of thumb, the more remote the house, the greater the reaction. Rabies had been eradicated from Timor-Leste, but there was an outbreak in western Timor-Leste in early 2024. It is best to move quickly (but not run) past dogs, and the following approaches can be taken in order of escalation…

• Ignore them and keep walking
• Get the attention of their owner by calling out bondia (good morning) or boa tarde (good afternoon)
• Reach down to the ground to pick up (or look like you are picking up) a rock or wave a stick

Emergencies

The emergency numbers to call in Timor-Leste are Police: 112. Fire: 115. Medical: 110, but don’t rely on their services, particularly in more remote areas. Medical facilities outside Dili are limited, and for anything serious you are likely to be evacuated to Bali or Australia for treatment, so make sure that your insurance policy covers this. Timorese tend to be very welcoming and helpful but are unlikely to speak much English. Before going on a hike you should let someone you trust know of your plans and when you expect to return.

Health

You obviously want to avoid getting sick on your travels, and that is especially true in Timor-Leste, particularly if you are travelling outside of Dili, where medical facilities are limited. You have very little chance of catching malaria or rabies thankfully, but Dengue fever and Chikungunya are common, especially during the wet season, so protect yourself from mosquitoes. Tap water is not drinkable and be careful what you eat. Pharmacies are often out of stock of common medicines so it is best to bring everything you need with you, including paracetamol, aspirin, and ibuprofen. You should check with your local travel doctor, and the sources below, for what vaccinations to get before travelling to Timor-Leste.

A couple of good sources for health information before travelling to Timor-Leste are the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention and NHS Fit for Travel.

If you get sick in Timor-Leste the two most popular places for private medical care are Stamford Medical (Dili) and Dili Medical Center (Dili). The US Embassy in Timor-Leste provide extensive information on medical facilities available in Timor-Leste.

Toilets

• You will encounter both Western style toilet bowls and Asian style (stand or squat) hole in the ground toilets.
• Few toilets are flush, most will require flushing by hand using a bucket and water tank next to the toilet.
• Most sewerage systems are sceptic tank based or free drain into the earth so fluids only and no flushed toilet paper.
• If toilet paper is used there will be a bin for its disposal. It is best to bring your own toilet paper just in case.
• Alternatively there will be a spray hose for washing body parts as with a bidet or a water trough and ladle / jug for dispensing water for washing and flushing.
• There are almost no public toilets in Timor-Leste, but locals will generally help you find somewhere suitable.

Climate

There are two seasons in Timor-Leste, the wet season (November to April) and dry season (May to October), with the contrast illustrated above at Cristo Rei in Dili, photographed in March and September. It is hot all year round, at least around the coast, with things cooling down in the mountain regions. In Dili the mean average temperature during the daytime is 31°C / 88°F and 22°C / 72°F during the coldest part of the night. Average relative humidity is 75% (Singapore is 80% on average as a comparison). In Maubisse, in the mountains, the mean average temperature during the daytime is 24°C / 76°F and 17°C / 62°F during the coldest part of the night. In the sunshine though it usually feels 5-10C hotter than these numbers suggest, so shade and sun protection are essential.

The best months for travelling around Timor-Leste are between June and September when it is less humid, it barely rains, and the roads have the best chance of being passable. There are significantly fewer mosquitoes around later in the dry season. The main downside is that the landscape can be dry and parched toward the end compared with the lush wet season. The wet season doesn’t entirely live up its name as it usually only rains every 2-3 days for a few hours heavily in the late afternoon (but sometimes first thing in the morning), but it is often overcast.

The best months for travel are June, July and August. The worst months for travel are December and January.

What’s Dili Weather Like offers a more thorough, and entertaining, perspective on what the weather is like in Dili, and Weather Spark has some excellent charts on the weather in Dili, particularly the Humidity Comfort Levels in the Dili chart, which ranges from humid to miserable!

Language

Timor-Leste is a village-based society with over 30 distinct language groups, the largest of which is Tetun. The Tetun language is related to other Austronesian languages in western Indonesia. Timor-Leste’s two official languages are Portuguese and Tetun. Indonesian and English are defined as working languages under the Constitution.

Tetun remains the most common means of communication between ordinary Timorese. Bahasa Indonesian is widely understood (Indonesian TV is available and popular in Timor-Leste), and the Portuguese language is taught in schools (with limited success) and at University. A large proportion of words in Tetun come from Portuguese, but it also shares many Malay-derived words with Bahasa Indonesian.

There are four main online / mobile translators of similar quality for Tetun:

• Tetun.org
• Tetun AI
• ChatGPT
• Google Translate

A few useful phrases…

• Bondia | Good morning
• Boa tarde | Good afternoon
• Bonoite | Good evening
• Diak ka lai? | How are you? (literally means good or not?)
• Ha’u diak | I’m fine
• Obrigada barak | Thank you very much (if said by a woman)
• Obrigadu barak | Thank you very much (if said by a man)
• Ne’e mak hira? How much does this cost?
• Hariis fatin iha nebee? Where is the bathroom?
• Sin = yes
• Lae = no

If you want learn more Tetun the Peace Corps have some good videos and materials, as does the Dili Institute of Technology Centre for Language Studies.

Being culturally aware

How to behave in Timor-Leste

• Public display of affection between the sexes is not socially acceptable.
• What might be interpreted by a Westerner as a minor relationship or flirtation is likely to be seen by a Timorese as a serious intention to form a relationship or to marry.
• At the beginning of any kind of meeting, people always start with small talk. Small talk is an obligation. For the Timorese people, small talk is part of the social exchange to respect and consider others. Timorese who know each other always spend a lot of time talking to each other whenever they meet.
• Avoid negative statements and don’t make people lose face. Under no circumstances should you criticise or correct someone in front of a group – it would be more appropriate and acceptable if you were to do this in private.
• When pointing to people (for example to ask who they are), do not use the outstretched index finger. Rather, hold your whole hand in their general direction.
• If you want to take leave of others, you should do so in a respectful manner. If you rush, it is disrespectful behaviour. Even if you are in a hurry, you have to spend a few minutes talking.
• Hospitality is important to the Timorese. If you are offered food or drink when you meet someone, it is important to at least taste it.
• Always ask before taking photos or recording people, but usually the Timorese are quite happy being photographed. Younger Timorese, particularly outside of Dili, will often encourage / demand that you take their photo!
• Religious days are closely observed. Loud noise and frivolous behaviour are frowned on during these times.
• During funeral or wedding celebrations the family / community will close the road near their house for between three days and a fortnight.

What to wear

• Women are expected to dress conservatively. This means avoiding short or revealing clothing, showing midriff, strappy tops etc. Dili is becoming more Westernised and clothing more revealing, however, still best to err on the conservative side. Shorts and t-shirts are fine for both men and women.
• In government Ministries or public buildings, arms and legs should be covered. No shorts or strappy tops.
• At the beach skimpy bikinis are not appropriate and bodies remain pretty well covered most of the time. If you do wear a bikini for sea swimming best to cover up once back on the beach.
• Wearing predominately black is a sign of being in mourning in Timor-Leste so avoid this if possible, for general daily wear, but individual black items are fine to wear.

Photography

• There are wonderful photo opportunities at every turn, but you do need to be aware that consent should be sought before taking photos of people and their homes or places of cultural sensitivity.
• Most Timorese are happy to have their photo taken and will want to see the picture!
• So simply to ask (“bele photo?”) is fine and the answer is most likely to be yes.
• For children it is best to get parental consent, for teenagers they can express a yes or no.
• Let them know what you may do with the photo before taking it.
• Common sense should prevail as to the appropriateness of any photograph taken and its use.

Shopping customs and bargaining

Popular souvenirs include tais (intricately woven cloth) and carvings, which can be bought in many places, including Tais Market, Alola Foundation, Taibesi Market, and the Beloi markets on Atauro Island. When shopping be aware that:

• Goods that have been purchased cannot normally be returned to the shop. Expect electronic goods to be demonstrated in the shop to show that they work. Keep the receipt for any high value items. You may be able to get them replaced / refunded, but only a few days of purchase, and at the shop’s discretion.
• Supermarkets are the only reliable place to get change from any notes larger than $10.
• Any negotiation at markets should be good humoured! What you pay is your decision but remember whatever you pay is supporting the local economy.
• Heated haggling over prices is not common in Timor.
• It is useful to know the usual price before you attempt to bargain with the owner.
• Prices in shops, supermarkets and eating places are generally fixed. Exceptions can be made for clothes and more expensive items on request.
• The only people who will try and charge you more than the locals pay are yellow taxi drivers, inter-town buses, and street vendors carrying fruit.

What to bring

When travelling around Timor-Leste it is best to assume that you won’t be able to easily get things you need, so if it is essential bring it with you. In addition to your usual travel packing I’d highly recommend bringing…

• An umbrella, both for sun and rain protection as both can be fierce here
• Pain relief such as paracetamol or ibuprofen, as they’re not reliably available
• Contact lens solution, it is almost impossible to buy here
• Toilet paper, just in case…
• Travel towel, if venturing outside of Dili as few guesthouses provide towels
• Ear plugs, there are no noise limits in Timor-Leste!
• Insect repellent, can be bought locally but not easily
• Sun lotion, can be bought locally but not easily
• Multi-plug travel adaptor with surge protection, power surges and power cuts are common here and you don’t want to fry your electronics. Also at least four different plug types can be found in Timor-Leste – C, E, F, and I
• Electrolytes, take with water after being out in the sun (particularly if hiking) or if you have an upset stomach
• Lots of USD, but only $5, $10 and $20 notes as USD coins and $1 notes are not accepted. There is no ATM in the airport and you need $30 cash for a tourist visa upon arrival, but check the visa policy of Timor-Leste. For many years Mastercard was not accepted anywhere in Timor-Leste but since March 2024 BNU ATMs accept it, but charge 2.7% commission.
• A drone as there are no laws or restrictions on their use in Timor-Leste other than staying away from Dili, Baucau, and Oé-Cusse airports and their flight paths.
• Snorkel and mask, to enjoy the incredible reefs around Atauro Island and along Timor-Leste’s north coast.
• A small cloth or sweat rag, it is very hot and humid here and you will sweat a lot!
• Water filter or water purification tablets, in case you can’t acquire safe drinking water.
• A sense of adventure!