Ainaro

Why visit?

Ainaro is to home to some of the most dramatic scenery in Timor-Leste, including Mt Ramelau / Tatamailau, the highest point in the country, and Dokomali waterfall, probably the most spectacular in the country. Hatu Builico is the main base for heading up Mt Ramelau / Tatamailau, and is a lovely place to explore. Maubisse is a mountain town 1,400m above sea level, which is a great place to relax and enjoy the cooler climate. Ainaro is also a significant coffee and vegetable growing region, despite the steep terrain.

Top three experiences

Climbing Mt Ramelau / Tatamailau, the highest point in Timor-Leste
Visiting the spectacular Dokomali waterfall
Exploring Maubisse and Hatu Builico on foot

Top places to stay

Sara Guest House, Maubisse (+670 7729 9957)
Cafè Maubisse Guest House (+670 7727 4756)
Pousada Alecrim Namrau, Hatu Builico (+670 7730 4366)
Ovalido Garden, Hatu Builico (+670 7741 3468)
Guesthouse Gabmenis, Ainaro (+670 7725 3569)

Top places to eat and drink

Restaurante Amizade, Maubisse (+670 7733 4880)
Restorante & Guest House de Sara, Maubisse (+670 7729 9957)
Restaurant Gabmenis, Ainaro (+670 7725 3569)

Sights

Maubisse – A popular (by Timor-Leste standards) tourist destination, Maubisse is a sizeable town located 1,526m above sea level. It has a much more temperate (and wetter!) climate than around the coast. It is a great place to relax and enjoy the mountain air, or go mountain biking or hiking.

The Pousada de Maubisse is currently closed (as of 2024) but the site is worth a look around for the magnificent views of the surrounding landscape. It was built as the mountain retreat for the Portuguese Governor, and was subsequently converted into a hotel, which was operational for a few years, but didn’t survive Covid times. The sizeable Church of St. Matthew is hard to miss on the main road. On Thursdays and Sundays large markets are held in Maubisse, which attract people from across the region. Other shopping experiences include local jam and strawberries from Fundasaun Renovar (+670 7327 4163) and tais, jewellery and coffee plant sculptures from Fosma (+670 7614 3577). The Cocamau community (+670 7597 6395) can offer coffee tours and camping. Between the markets and Pousada is the Square of the Knights Templar and a memorial to the victims of the Japanese occupation during WW2. From the ruined walls remaining of a Portuguese colonial era fortress, panoramic mountain views can be enjoyed. To the east of the town is Ulelufa Strawberry Farm (+670 7536 4847), the largest growers in Timor-Leste, where you can pick your own fruit and vegetables.

Ersalibuti (Hakmatek) waterfall – A couple of kilometres south of Maubisse is the beautiful Ersalibuti waterfall, which has a deep pool. It is a 20-30 minute walk from the road, but there are a number of paths so it best to hire a local guide from the Hakmatek Co-operative, where there is parking. You can also visit the Hauk Koa Tun cave and take a coffee tour. The co-operative (+670 7522 8915 or +670 7771 4410) also offer simple hut accommodation, and maintain an Uma Lulik, a traditional Timorese sacred house.

Mt Rabilau – A prominent peak close to Maubisse, in an area which has been developed for tourism since 2011 with training of locals, but really got going in 2022 with the building of camping facilities. The area costs $1 to enter, and an additional $2 to access the Catholic pilgrimage site at the top, home to a Statue of Our Lady of Fatima and incredible views. A new road in 2024 is being built which will improve access to the area. There is another lookout lower down, traditional Timorese buildings, and a large I Love Maubisse sign on the mountainside. A festival is held every year at Rabilau, usually in October.

Hatu Builico – The highest village in Timor-Leste, lying around 1,950m above sea level. Most visitors to Hatu Builico go specifically to climb Mt Ramelau / Tatamailau for sunrise. If you can, allow at least a couple of hours to also explore the village as there is plenty to see, as well as spectacular scenery in all directions.

A huge and strikingly blue church was inaugurated in October 2022. Opposite the Pousada Alecrim Namrau is a shrine to the Virgin Mary. A former Portuguese colonial administrative building occupies a prime location in the central of the village. Opposite it are held local markets on Wednesdays and Saturdays. On the hillside above is a large white tomb to an important local clergyman. Heading further along the valley is a beautifully located cemetery on the hillside. There are a number of traditional Timorese thatched buildings in the village, including a number of Uma Lulik, sacred houses. There are many lovely guided walks in the area. These were documented in 2010 by a pair of Australian volunteers, working with the local community.

Fleixa-Pass – Half an hour’s drive south of Maubisse is this popular lookout spot, with great views of Mt Kablaki, the fourth highest mountain in Timor-Leste.

Be Tuda Aituto – A small waterfall just beyond Fleixa-Pass, which can be reached along a relatively steep and slippery path.

Dokomali waterfall – Probably the most spectacular waterfall in Timor-Leste, though some effort is required to reach it. Access is off the main road about 45 minutes south of Maubisse, look out for the brown tourism site sign. Allow at least an hour to walk to and from the waterfall along a steep 1.3km path. The path is generally decent, with some steps, but closer to the falls care needs to be taken as it can be slippery. An enterprising local has built a bamboo bridge to access the waterfall, for which payment is required to cross ($1.50 for Timorese and $2 for malae / foreigners).

Ainaro town – Ainaro town is quite different to Maubisse and Hatu Builico, as it lies at a much lower elevation, in a lush river valley. During the unrest that followed the independence referendum in 1999, Indonesian backed militia destroyed 95% of the buildings in Ainaro town. It is still one of the larger towns in Timor-Leste and therefore home to a large and rather lovely church. There is also a memorial to Régulo Dom Aleixo Corte-Real, who was killed by the Japanese in the Second World War. He was a Timorese chieftain and a Portuguese hero during World War II, who fought the Japanese in 1943 until his ammunition ran out and he was captured and shot. The colourful former summer residence of the Portuguese Governor is now used as a government office.

Hiking

Mt Ramelau / Tatamailau – Summiting Mt Ramelau / Tatamailau, at 2,986m the highest peak in Timor-Leste, is a relatively straightforward 2.5-3 hours ascent (and 1.5-2 hour descent) from the village of Hatu Builico (at 1,950m). Most people spend the night there, get up around 2.30am, and leave by 3am to reach the summit around 6am to see the sunrise. Accommodation may not provide breakfast so bring snacks. A head torch is useful for the walk up. It is the coldest place in the country (and often windy) so take some layers!

The route is relatively clear in daylight but a guide is recommended if you are walking up in the dark. Guides can be organised through your accommodation. Expect to pay around $25. Supplies are limited in Hatu Builico so it is best to bring what you need from Maubisse, Aileu or Dili. Take plenty of water as you are unlikely to be able to buy any on the hike. It is best to take a 4WD for the first 2.5km to save steep and dull road walking to the plateau. You will need to sign at guestbook at the meadow on the plateau (where the ‘road’ ends) and may need to pay $1 before heading to the summit. There are no toilets along the track.

The trail head is marked by a large gateway, after which are steps which give way to the track further up. 500m below the summit is an open air chapel, which has been rebuilt after the original was destroyed by fire in October 2020. About five minutes walk before the summit is a large telecommunications tower, which is manned overnight, explaining the house and toilet next to it. At the summit is an impressively robust alabaster statue of the Virgin Mary, known as Nain Feto Ramelau (Our Lady of Ramelau), which gifted by Italy in 1997.

Every year in March and October there are pilgrimages to commemorate the Annunciation of the Blessed Virgin Mary. Around 25,000 people summit Mt Ramelau / Tatamailau annually, the vast majority of whom are Timorese visiting for religious reasons, with mass held at the open air chapel.

In the 1980s the mountain was heavily forested and was identified as an Important Bird Area, home to a number of rare birds. Since then there has been significant deforestation for grazing livestock, with limited original habitat remaining.

Most people head to the summit for sunrise, but another option is to start around 3pm and watch the sunset around 6.30pm from the summit before descending (carefully!) in the dark. You are even more likely to have the summit to yourself at this time.

It is also possible to approach Mt Ramelau / Tatamailau from Aimeta in Ermera municipality, which is about 1.5 hours from Letefoho (which is about 4 hours from Dili). This is a tougher 5-6 hour hike to the summit, with more complicated logistics so is rarely undertaken. The summit of Mt Ramelau / Tatamailau is actually in Ermera, but is almost always approached from Ainaro. The best time to summit Mt Ramelau / Tatamailau is between June and November, during the dry season. In the wet season the 4WD road to Hatu Builico may be impassable.

Mt Maubo – The 2,369m high Mt Maubo lies on the border between Ermera and Ainaro. It is topped with a huge concrete cross and on a clear day offers excellent views of Mt Ramelau / Tatamailau. It can be reached by foot from Usululi in 1-2 hours.

Mountain biking

There are some phenomenal MTB trails in Ainaro, both around Hatu-Builico and Maubisse, for experienced riders. For more information check out Diliguide and the Timor-Leste MTB Facebook group.

Getting there

Getting to Maubisse is relatively straightforward as there is a decent (if winding!) road from Dili. A number of local buses go between Dili and Maubisse, from Taibessi bus station. Buses to Same and Suai also pass through Maubisse. Getting anywhere else in Ainaro will require your own transport, and a 4WD or motorbike is needed to reach Hatu Builico. A number of local tour operators can organise trips, either with just a driver, or with a guide as well.

Getting around

By private 4WD vehicle or motorbike is the easiest option. Local buses go along the main road through Ainaro down to the south coast. You may be able to catch a microlet from Maubisse to Hatu Builico but getting back may be a challenge, unless you’re keen on an 18km hike. For the adventurous it is possible to hire a motorbike and driver from Maubisse (with you as the passenger) for around $40 to take you to and from the start of Mt Ramelau / Tatamailau.