Atauro Island

Why visit?

Atauro Island is as close as Timor-Leste comes to a tourist hub, although it is still pretty basic! But that is part of the charm. It is a quiet tropical paradise with little development outside of Beloi, where the ferries arrive. It is home to world-class diving and snorkelling, with some of the healthiest and most bio-diverse reefs in the world. These are the main draw for visitors, but there is also excellent hiking and a culture distinctive from the mainland. Atauro Island lies 30km north of Dili, and is home to around 12,000 people. Interestingly, unlike the rest of Timor-Leste, the local population is predominately Protestant, not Catholic, after Calvinist missionaries arrived in the early 20th century.

Top three experiences

Snorkelling or diving
Hiking the Vila to Makili loop
Exploring the markets in Beloi (best on Saturdays, but also runs on Tuesdays and Thursdays)

Top places to stay

Barry’s Place, Beloi (+670 7723 6084)
Atauro Dive Resort, Beloi (+670 7738 6166)
Compass Diving Atauro Eco Lodge (+670 7723 0965)
Jhoky’s Homestay, Atecru (+670 7670 5089)
Mario’s Place, Adara (+670 7795 7272)

Top (only) places to eat and drink

Beloi markets for lunch (Saturdays though some food may be available on Tuesdays and Thursdays)
Atauro Dive Resort for homemade ice cream (+670 7738 6166)
Ponkys Bar & Café, Beloi (+670 7558 3421)
Manakoko Rek, Vila (+670 7748 7301)
Note that these are basically the only places that will serve food on request, which is why accommodation on the island is almost all full board

Top beaches

Atecru, on the west coast, a 5.5 hour hike from Beloi or $130 to charter a boat for the day from Barry’s Place
Akrema, white sand beach at the top of the east coast, 1.5 hour walk from Bikeli ($5 truck ride from Beloi) or $60 / $70 for car / truck from Beloi
Lampia (between Vila and Makili), 15 minute walk at low tide from Vila ($2 tuk tuk ride from Beloi)

Sights

Beloi – Almost all visitors will spend the majority of their time in Beloi, as it is home to most of the accommodation on the island, is where the ferries arrive three days a week, and is close to the airstrip for MAF flights from Dili. It can be hard to leave the village as there are markets, and incredible snorkelling and diving, on your doorstep. You can literally be snorkelling within minutes of disembarking a ferry, as there is a reef that starts just metres offshore immediately south of the ferry wharf. In 2024 construction started on a huge new Protestant church on the hillside close to the perhaps ironically named Beloi Beach Hotel (as it is 20 minutes walk from the beach!).

Vila – The largest settlement on the island doesn’t have a huge amount to attract visitors, but there are a few things of interest. Lady Mary Cave, built during the Indonesian occupation, can be reached by a short but steep walk up the hillside at the southern end of Vila. Lampia Beach is very pleasant, and can be reached at low-tide by walking south along Vila’s beach toward Makili. Also at low tide on Vila beach look out for the rusting remains of a ship.

Makili – A surprisingly large settlement south of Vila, Makili is well worth visiting by foot or boat. A great loop hike involves walking up over the hills, past Lady Mary Cave, and down to Makili, before returning along the coast, past Lampia Beach (at low tide only). In Makili look out for the statue of St. Peter, the patron saint of fishermen, close to the water.

East coast villages – The other three settlements on the east coast are Bikeli, Uaroana, and Akrema. Bikeli is by far the largest. Between Bikeli and Uaroana are hot springs, though they are coastal, tidal, and hot enough to burn skin, so more for looking at than sitting in. Akrema is a beautiful spot at the northern end of Atauro Island, home to a long white sand beach, a Cave of the Dead with human bones, and the best campsite on the island. There is a reef off the coast of Akrema but it is too far out to easily be able to swim to.

Adara – It used to require some effort to reach, either a $120 boat ride or tough 3-4 hour hike from Beloi, but as of mid 2025 a new road allows people to drive there in 45 minutes. The coastline here is quite different from the east coast, and the sunsets are absolutely spectacular. Mario’s Place has a collection of beach side huts, and is an idyllic place to stay, although basic. Adara has an impressive reef, with a huge drop off popular with divers. Note that due to rocks there is only one entry / exit point off the coast, to the north of Mario’s Place.

Atecru – One of the most beautiful places on an island full of beauty. Atecru is a lovely village blessed with a stunning beach and an incredible reef, which is more easily accessible than Adara an hour up the coast. There are two historical sites on the headland above Atecru that are worth visiting. Each cost $2.50 per person to visit. Aleti-Tunu Bibi is a cave that has been used as a shelter for at least 18,000 years, and is home to 8,000 year old rock art. The Singing Rock is an unusual hollow rock that can be played almost like a musical instrument. Also by the start of the route up to Anartutu there is a small cave with human bones of famine victims. Jhoky runs a lovely homestay in Atecru, and camping is possible. Contact him on +670 7670 5089.

Inland villages – Most of the villages are around the coast, but Anartutu is a sizeable settlement in the mountains, while Arlo, Doro and Iliana can all be visited on the way to Adara, if walking from Beloi.

Snorkeling and Diving

Atauro Island has world class excellent snorkelling and diving. The map below was developed during Covid times by local dive companies to show the many places to explore underwater.

Popular snorkelling sites are the reefs by Beloi, and the reefs at Adara and Atecru on the west coast. A number of marine reserves have been established around the island, which aren’t popular with all of the fishermen, but do generate some income for local communities through a $2 entry fee per person.

The west coast reefs can be reached from shore, as can the reef to the north of the ferry wharf in Beloi. The other reefs are best reached by a short boat trip, best organised through your accommodation or Barry’s Place, where snorkelling gear can be hired by day trippers.

There are two dive companies based on the island, Compass Diving and Atauro Dive Resort. Dive Timor Lorosae are based in Dili but often run trips over to Atauro Island. Expect to pay around $60 for a dive, including equipment hire and a Dive Master or Instructor. Dive sites are reached by a short boat ride of generally no more than five minutes if diving the Beloi reefs.

Note that between May and September trade winds provide a welcome breeze on the east coast but can make the sea conditions choppier. This is more of an issue for snorkelling than diving, but is better to go out in the mornings when the seas tend to be calmer.

Hiking

There is great hiking throughout the island. June and July are considered the best months for hiking as the landscape is still green from the wet season, the tracks are dry, and it is slightly cooler (a relative term in Timor-Leste!). Some of the better known hikes include…

Vila to Makili (moderate to hard, 3-4 hour loop, guide not required but helpful)
Beloi to Adara (moderate to hard, 3-4 hours one way, guide not required)
Bikeli to Akrema (easy, 3 hours return, guide not required)
Lady Mary Cave & Statue (moderate, 1.5 hour return, guide not required)
Manucoco (hard, 5-7 hour return, guide essential)
Atauro Island Circuit (moderate to hard, 3-5 days, guide required)

March flies can be a problem on Atauro Island, particularly on the road from Beloi toward Adara. Wearing long pants / trousers appears to be the best solution to avoiding getting bitten, as they appear to ignore insect repellent.

Birding

Atauro Island is one of the most important areas for birds in Timor-Leste, in particular the area around Manacoco. ATKOMA can organise walking tours focused on the birdlife.

Shopping

Beloi holds markets on Saturdays (the busiest day), Tuesdays and Thursdays, where souvenirs can be bought, along with (very strong!) smoked fish and dried seaweed. There are women’s collectives in Vila, Makili, and Anartutu where traditional Atauro Island tais can be bought. Marcus, a sculptor based in Makili, sells his wooden statues at Barry’s Place for typically between $20 and $30.

Getting there

Regular ferries run on Saturdays (Dragon Boat and Success / Nakroma), Tuesdays (Success) and Thursdays (Dragon Boat) between Dili and Beloi on Atauro Island, taking between 1.5 and 3 hours. They leave Dili around 8am, and depart from Beloi around 2pm. MAF flights operate on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays. A number of the accommodation providers on the island run their own boats for guests, but may be willing to take non-guests if there is space, or if the boat is chartered.

MAF flights are the quickest and most comfortable way to travel but only include 10kg luggage (excess is possible for $5 per kg) and cost $80 one way. The Success is the slowest but most comfortable ferry and costs $5. The seats by the side doors have more fresh air, leg room, and access to UK plug sockets. The Dragon Boat is the most popular ferry with tourists as it is fast, but it can be challenging in rough seas, noisy inside, and you can’t get any fresh air while travelling. VIP tickets are $12 but if you suffer from sea sickness the $10 standard tickets are better as you sit lower in the boat. The Nakroma is the oldest ferry and is probably best to avoid though it is only $4. The boats run by accommodation providers are fast, but not that comfortable, and are surprisingly expensive at $70-$80 per person. Note that photo ID is required to buy ferry tickets, other than for the Dragon Boat. Tickets for all ferries can be bought on the day, or for the Dragon Boat up to 2 days before sailing, from their office near to Gloria Jean’s and Burger King, close to the port.

The schedule for transport to Atauro Island changes quite frequently so it is best to go online for the latest information. Barry’s Place maintain the most up to date information on the various transport options.

Getting around

Vila is the largest settlement, but Beloi is where the vast majority of visitors stay. A tuk-tuk between the two costs $2 and takes about 15 minutes. Semi-regular passenger trucks run between Beloi and Bikeli and cost $5. You can organise private transport by car ($60) or passenger truck ($70) for day trips from Beloi to the white sand beach at Akrema, or take the truck to Bikeli and walk for 1.5 hours each way.

Fishing boats can be chartered through Barry’s Place for the day for trips between Beloi and Adara for $120 or between Beloi and Atecru for $130. A boat between Makili and Vila costs $30, or $50 between Makili and Beloi. It is generally easier to travel by water around Atauro Island, than across the island, given the state of the roads (other than a decent stretch between Beloi and Vila). The main mode of transport for locals is their legs! Expect to see hundreds of school children walking around various parts of the island at the start and end of the day, as many villages lack their own school.