Bobonaro

Why visit?

On the border with Indonesian West-Timor, Bobonaro is best known for the small village of Balibó, where in 1975 the invading Indonesian army killed five Australian based journalists. Its main city Maliana is one of the largest in the country, and the Marobo Hot Springs are an interesting destination for the adventurous. It is one of the best places in the country to see scenic rice fields, which are particularly accessible in Atabae and Maliana.

Top three experiences

Exploring the history of Balibó
Watching the sunset over the rice fields of Atabae and Maliana
Visiting the Marobo Hot Springs, for adventurous travellers

Top places to stay

Balibó Fort Hotel, Balibó (+670 7777 4845)
Uma Du’ut Cottage, Maliana (+670 7723 5925)
Ramascora Resort, Maliana (+670 7723 4502)

Top places to eat and drink

D² “Uma Kafé”, Atabae
Balibó Fort Hotel, Balibó (+670 7777 4845)
Restaurante Laduena Maliana (+670 7729 5768)

Sights

Balibó Fort – The second oldest fort in Timor-Leste, dating back 350-370 years. It was built by the Portuguese to protect nearby Batugade in the on-going power struggle with the Dutch over control of this part of Southeast Asia. It was used as a Portuguese administrative building, and the house inside the fort was built in the 1920s for the then senior colonial administrator. It is now one of the best places to stay in the country, offering good food and an infinity pool! The fort is home to the Balibó Veterans’ Museum (to the left inside the main gate), a small, but informative place opened in April 2022. It tells the stories of veterans who served in Timor-Leste during World War II, through the Resistance, INTERFET and in the International Stabilisation force. Entry is free.

Balibó Flag House – Named for the Australian flag painted on the side, this was home to five Australian-based (2 Australians, 2 British and 1 New Zealander) journalists who travelled to then East Timor in October 1975 to report on attacks along the border between West Timor and East Timor. When the Indonesian army invaded East Timor the five journalists were murdered by senior soldiers to cover up the actions of the army. It took years for the truth to come out and no one has ever been charged for their murder. The Flag House is now a community centre, home to a museum, shop, coffee stall and learning centre.

Liurai Statue – Next to Balibó Fort and the Balibó Flag House is a statue of Liurai de Balibó (local ruler) built during the Indonesian occupation. Look out for the prominent number 27 on the base, as the Indonesian considered Timor-Leste to be their 27^th province.

Igreja Santo Antonio Balibó – The largest church in Balibó, at the western edge of the town. Behind the altar are a series of colourful paintings. Outside is a I Love Balibó sign.

Morutaumorubara Cave (Gruta Morutau) – On the outskirts of Balibó, this is home to a man-made cave with the Virgin Mary, and a statue of Jesus on the cross, and offers expansive views of the Balibó area. It is accessed via a short, but steep and rocky, walk past Stations of the Cross.

Balibó Cemetery (Aldeia La vila Balibó) – The main Balibó cemetery is located to the north west of the town, on the way to Morutaumorubara Cave. It is about 10-15 minutes walk uphill from the town centre.

Gruta Duanele – Natural caves home to stalactites and bats, which were used by the local population as a hiding place during troubled times (unfortunately common in Timor-Leste’s history). They’re only 1.8km easy walking from Balibó, but hard to find without a local guide from Balibó Trails or Balibó Fort Hotel.

Atabae – It would be easy to just drive through Atabae on your way to Balibó but you’d be missing out on some of the most scenic rice fields in the country. To the east of the road are expansive rice fields, which can be best seen from the roof of D² “Uma Kafé”. A sizeable new Igreja São Francisco de Assis is being built a couple of blocks back from the main road, and Atabae has an impressive stretch of coastline.

Maliana – One of the largest cities in Timor-Leste, located close to the border with Indonesia. It is a large agricultural hub, particularly for rice production. It has few sights but is a good base for exploring the area, particularly accessing the Marobo Hot Springs (still a 1.5 hour rough drive away). It is a very spread out city, most easily explored with your own transport as there are few microlets (25c a ride but you may need to wait 20-30 minutes for one).

There are beautiful rice fields literally behind the city centre, best viewed from off the road that connects the markets with the Protestant Church (Igreja Protesyante Maliana). This yellow church was undergoing renovation in 2024. The similar sized (but with a huge outdoor covered area) Santa Cruz Catholic Church is at the eastern end of Maliana. Close by is the main cemetery, Santa Cruz Cemetery, which offers great views of Mt Loelaco. There are large markets in Maliana but surprisingly few places to eat for a city as big as Baucau. The roundabout near the markets is home to a colourful monument. There are a number of colourful buildings along the main road through Maliana, including Edifisio Municipio Maliana and Centro Juventude Maliana. Just off the main road at the western end of town is Mailana Ossuario, which has a near identical design to the Ossuario near Same, Manufahi.

Mt Loelaco – An impressively jagged 1,920m peak between Maliana and the Marobo Hot Springs, which is best enjoyed from a distance. Two people have died in recent years on it, and local guides are now unwilling to take people up it. There are extensive boulder fields of sharp, steep, and unstable limestone.

Marobo Hot Springs – The best known hot springs in the country were developed by the Portuguese, with a resort complex built around the pools, but fell into disrepair. In 2016 the whole complex was redeveloped, but little maintenance appears to have taken place since. As of 2024 the toilets are completely out of action, and derelict buildings surround the pools. The hot springs produce ~2,000 litres of water per minute. There are three pools, one very hot (up to ~50C), one hot, and one cold. Despite only being 55km from Dili, allow at least 5 hours to get there, along increasingly bad roads that require good off-road skills.

Surya Arcana Lingga – Next to Capela S. Francisco Xavier in the village of Tonabibie, close to the Indonesian border, lie the atmospheric remains of Surya Arcana Lingga, a Balinese Hindu Temple built during the Indonesian occupation for Balinese farmers who resettled here in 1982.

Batugade – Home to the main border crossing between Timor-Leste and Indonesia, and little else of interest from a sights perspective, though it does have a pleasant beach. The remains of the 1655 Portuguese Fort are now occupied by the Police. On the road between Batugada and Balibó there are many traditional Timorese thatched buildings.

Lake Be Malae – North of Batugade, this 3,000 hectare lagoon is an important habit for birds.

Leohito waterfall – Decent waterfall about 15 minutes drive south east of Balibó along 4WD roads, requiring local guidance to access.

Soileco Hot Springs – Almost completely unknown, these hot springs are even harder to reach than those in Marobo. They are in a beautiful setting though, surrounded by palm trees and terraced rice fields.

Hiking

Balibó Trails or Balibó Fort Hotel can provide guides for short or longer walks to caves and waterfalls in the area. Climbing Mt Loelaco, close to Maliana, is not recommended for safety reasons. Mt Abendudatoi is a better option, accessible from Tapo with a local guide, and offers great views of Mt Loelaco and the surrounding landscape. Eco Discovery run a tough but incredible three day hike from Tapo to Atsabe in Ermera, visiting the Marobo and Soileco hot springs, and Bandeira waterfall (the highest in Timor-Leste).

Mountain biking

Balibó Trails can rent bikes to explore the area. One option is an 18km loop from Balibó Fort through forest track, with undulating hills and views of the hills along the Timor-Leste / Indonesia border.

Getting there

Local buses leave the Tasi Tolu bus station in west Dili in the morning from 3.30am onwards for Balibó and Maliana. Exploring anywhere off the main road will require your own transport. MAF fly three times a week from Dili to Maliana, a scenic 30 minute flight.

Getting around

As usual in Timor-Leste it is easiest to have your own transport. Tum-Tums do travel along the roads of Atabae, and microlets operate infrequently in Maliana. There are local buses between Atabae and Balibó.