Manufahi

Why visit?

A varied and beautiful municipality that stretches from the mountainous centre of the country down to the south coast, with incredible scenery. Its name was meant to be Maun Fahe (‘divided brothers’) relating to a local legend, but unfortunately it was mistranslated in Tetun as Manufahi, which means ‘pig chicken’! It is home to Mt Kablaki, one of the most impressive (and difficult to climb) mountains in Timor-Leste, Same with an interesting history of resistance against the Portuguese, and Betano Beach, where Australian troops were evacuated during WW2.

Top three experiences

Admiring the incredible Mt Kablaki, the fourth highest mountain in Timor-Leste
Cooling down in the natural swimming pool north of Same
Exploring WW2 history at Betano Beach

Top places to stay

Hotel Umaliurai, Same (+670 7804 3460)

Top places to eat and drink

Lubi Cafe and Bar, Same (+670 7802 4493)
Resto Evelyn & William, Same (+670 7661 5853)
Hotel Umaliurai, Same (+670 7804 3460)
Restaurante Warung, Betano (+670 7808 0680)

Sights

Same – The largest town in the municipality is typically spread out, but home to a few sights of interest. In the centre of town is a statue of a warrior holding a spear and shield in honour of local leader Dom Boaventura. He led a 16 year long campaign against the introduction of taxes and forced labour by the Portuguese. What became known toward the end as the Manufahi war didn’t stop until 1912, when the Portuguese brought troops over from Mozambique. The Same protestant church has an interesting design, looking like a rocket from the front. To the east of the town city is Cristo Rei de Same, a white statue of Jesus on the top of the hill. In 1999 the town was almost completely destroyed by Indonesian militia. It was also the site of the Battle of Same in 2007 between Australian Special Forces and Petitioner rebels under the command of Alfredo Reinado, part of the 2006 East Timorese crisis.

Natural Swimming Pool – 15 minutes north of Same is a glorious pool fed by fresh spring water. It is very refreshing! You can’t miss it, as it is literally next to the main road.

Antigo tanque da Segunda Guerra Mundial – An old tank from WW2 lies 10 minutes north of Same by the side of the main road.

Parque Nacional de Dom Boaventura – Confusingly this isn’t really a national park in the usual meaning of the word, but more a space for a large monument to a local resistance hero Dom Boaventura who fought a long campaign against the colonial Portuguese at the start of the 20th century. It is also home to a site for heroes and martyrs of the patriot movement.

Betano Beach – This is where Australian Sparrow Force guerrilla troops were evacuated by ship and submarine during WWII. The remains of the Australian destroyer Voyager can still be seen on the beach. It became grounded on 25^th September 1942 after unloading Australian troops, was damaged by Japanese bombers, and was scuttled by her crew. The area of Betano is home to the largest power station in the country, providing electricity to the south coast of the country.

Lake Modo Mahut (Lagoa Modomahut) – An internationally important wetland area home to many species of bird on the eastern coastline of Manufahi.

Hiking

The fourth highest mountain in Timor-Leste may be more than 500m lower than Mt Ramelau / Tatamailau, but the 2,459m high Mt Kablaki is a far more difficult and dangerous mountain to hike up. A local guide (from the region) is essential as there are often no paths, and chest high long grass to navigate through. It should only be attempted in good weather and with appropriate equipment and experience. There are two peaks – Kaikas and Berlaka.

Getting there

Local buses for Same leave from Dili’s Taibessi bus station in the mornings. MAF fly three times a week from Dili to Same, a very scenic 30 minute flight across the highest mountains in the country.

Getting around

By private 4WD vehicle or motorbike is the easiest option. Local buses go along the main road to Same, and around the coast to Suai in Covalima.