Viqueque

Why visit?

Possibly the least visited municipality in Timor-Leste, Viqueque is a mixture of sprawling mountains and flat, dense jungle leading to the coast. It is one of the less-developed regions of the country, partly due its size and lack of population (around 80,000 people), and was a stronghold of the resistance during the Indonesian occupation. It is home to Mundo Perdido, the ‘Lost World’, Timor-Leste’s largest remaining rainforest, which offers good hiking opportunities.

Top three experiences

Hiking around Mundo Perdido
Visiting the Church of the Immaculate Conception in Viqueque and Church of Saint Thérèse of the Child Jesus in Ossú
Seeing the beautiful Loihuno waterfall

Top places to stay

Hotel Comunitaria Wailakurini (+670 7832 6687)

Top places to eat and drink

Guest House Luminar, Viqueque
Restaurante Vicna Joma, Viqueque
Note that in most parts of Viqueque the only place to eat will be at your accommodation

Sights

Viqueque town – Viqueque is home to the Church of the Immaculate Conception, one of the most impressive churches in Timor-Leste, which was completed in 2014. The original church was the site of a horrific massacre of up to a thousand Timorese by Indonesian troops in August 1983, commemorated by a monument containing the wrecked remains of a car, in which two nuns were murdered. The new church took two years to build by an Indonesian company and cost $2m. Close to the church is the formal Tilou Park, home to various monuments and a playground. The large Cuha River runs through the town, and crocodiles have been known to travel up from the south coast. As you travel through town look out for 14 large concrete crosses marking Stations of the Cross, between the start of town and the church.

Baucau border to Viqueque town – This 30km stretch of road will take at least an hour to drive along, given the state of the road, though improvements were underway in 2024. The village of Builale is surrounded by rolling hills of lush grass, with grazing cows and horses. By the side of the road are a pair of attractive Uma Lulik sacred buildings that can be visited with permission from the neighbouring house.

Larigutu is home to the large Alakubaa Cemetery opposite the Miradouro de Lariguto statue, commemorating a female Timorese independence hero. A short drive to the west, off the main road (by the antenna), offers stunning views toward Mundo Perdido, and further along the surreal Jardim dos Heróis e Mártires da Pátria Larigutu, a huge memorial arch in the middle of seemingly nowhere.

The huge red and green Church of Saint Thérèse of the Child Jesus dominates the village of Ossú. On the hillside behind the church is a shrine (gruta) to Jesus and the Virgin Mary. There is also a market building with the same design as the market in Venilale.

Loihuno is home to one of the best waterfalls in the country, and the interesting if challenging Abrigo Reconciliação Guerilla Hideout. Here metal ladders have been attached to the steep terrain to allow access to a lookout marking where two Timorese independence leaders first met in 1989. Allow at least 45 minutes to reach the lookout and return. There is a second lookout about half way up.

Beyond Viqueque town – There are two main roads south of Viqueque, one heads west to Manufahi, the other east to Lautém. These are often impassable during the wet season, and slow and challenging during the dry season. There is no accommodation or real food options between Viqueque town and Lospalos, just a long and bumpy, if scenically interesting drive.

Hiking

The landscape of Mundo Perdido (“Lost World” in Portuguese) is a varied and atmospheric place to explore on foot. The Portuguese called it the Lost World as the area is so often hidden in mist. The best time of year to visit to try and get views is between August and October. The area was an important hideout for Timorese independence fighters during the Indonesian occupation. Now it is designated an ‘Important Bird Area’, home to 63 different species, and is one of the three most important areas for orchids in Timor-Leste. There are no clear trails and it is easy to get lost, so a local guide is strongly recommended. A couple of options are Joni on +670 7727 7996 or M.Xisto on +670 7604 1207. Two popular places to start hiking from are about 45 minutes drive (on a challenging road) to the west of Larigutu and from close to Ossú.

Getting there

If travelling by local bus start from the Becora bus terminal in east Dili, and either travel directly to Viqueque, or travel first to Baucau and catch another bus from there. MAF fly twice times a week from Dili to Viqueque, a scenic 30 minute flight.

Getting around

Beyond Viqueque town you’re going to need your own transport, a decent 4WD or motorbike with good off-road skills. There are a number of rivers / streams that require fording, which can be difficult after rain, and the roads are some of the roughest in the country (which is saying something!).